Located amid the century-old quarter on Nakhon Sawan Road in Pom Prap Sattru Phai District, Nang Loeng Market is one of the most dated fresh markets in the capital. Arising for the first time during the reign of King Rama V, the market opened officially on March 29, 1900. This quarter was originally called “Sanam Kwai” before being changed to “E-Loeng”, a word signifying a specific type of urns made by Mon people, who had brought these urns down the river and along the canal of Phadung Krung Kasem for sale. The market was renamed again under the government of PM Plaek Phibunsongkhram to “Nang Loeng”, and the name sticks around until today. Previously, the area used to be the capital’s entertainment quarter, harbouring both Nang Loeng Race Course and Sala Chalerm Thani Theatre (commonly called Nang Loeng cinema), attracting a lot of visitors in the evening.
The Tasting List: One counts several of the original businesses that have been running for 40 to 60 years:
Roong Reuang Noodles: Also known as Foi Thong (angel hair) noodles, this dainty dish is made in-house. The original garnishes include wonton, crab meat, lacquered pork slices and fresh bok choy.
Roong Roj: Only stewed duck noodles were originally on the menu, but they later included dishes from Teochew cuisine. Presently the place boasts a comprehensive menu of over 60 delicious options, with Hainanese chicken rice at the top of the list.
Supamit: Hainanese rice noodle here changes from its regular counterpart.
Nang Loeng Braised Beef: They serve great stewed pork and a unique Chinese-style curry here. Try also braised pork tongue.
Bánh Xèo: This Vietnamese twist comes inside a crunchy shell. They offer a choice of egg or plain.
The Original Hakka Noodles: The place serves both the original angel hair and white rice noodle addition. They also make grilled pork noodle or rice in the evening.
Boon Lerd: While famous for their glossy marinated grilled pork, the place also sells chicken fried noodles, fish congee and boiled rice.
Jae Na Boiled Rice: The boiled rice here is still made in the traditional brass wok.
Try Not To Miss: Pekin duck, lacquered pork and fried pork belly at Jib Kee, which has been in business for over a century. The original owners who started the place carried their food all the way to Chulachomklao Royal Military Academy down the canal to sell. Jib Kee is located on roadside, opposite the entrance to the market.
Fish sausage is another specialty of the market. Scrumptious and flavourful, the sausage is a mix of fish and pork, and is sometimes served with a side of rice.
Mae Sa-Ing’s steamed rice dumplings and tapioca balls (with shrimp, pork or fish fillings) are unbeatable. The place is located on the roadside in front of the market.
The world-famous traditional Thai coffee from the occidentally-named Salon de Café. Here they roast their own beans with a cereal mix, and if you can get the owner to make the coffee for you, the satisfaction is guaranteed. They also import their aromatic tea leaf from Sri Lanka.
Take These Home:
Anything from Mae Somjit Thai Delicacies is worth your trip to Nang Loeng. They have sticky plain rice balls or with shrimp filling, rice cake, and all things sweet and traditional. They take pride in grinding their own rice flour and making their fresh coconut last longer by roasting it first. Further down the same Soi is another Thai sweet seller, Khun Yai, who opens every Wednesday, Thursday and Friday, making the classic taro sweet potato dessert, steamed flour with coconut or black sesame fillings etc.
Everyday from 10:00 am. - 14:00 pm. and 17:00 - 23:00 pm. Weekends see less activity.
By Car: From Yomaraj intersection, take Lan Luang Road. When you pass Mahanak market, cross the overpass and turn right onto Krungkasame Road. At Thewakam intersection, Nang Loeng Market is on your right. From Ratchadamnoen Avenue, head in the direction of Nang Loeng. The market will be on your right.
By Bus: Take bus number 5, 10, 53, 171, or from Lan Luang, number 2, 8, 44 and 60.
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